Whiskey in the land of the rising sun

When I first came to Japan in around 2006, it was for just a breif 4 night stop over on my way back from the US. I was young and even more naive back then (now I’m older but probably just as naive) and I did not appreciate whiskies as much as I do now. However I had read about some Japanese whiskey and was keen to try some whilst in Japan. Also back then finding aged Japanese whiskey was relatively simple, it could even be found in the local electrical goods store?!

At this point my experience with whiskey was largely limited to those produced in Scotland and Ireland, and given my budget, I tended to drink what was perhaps not the best representation from these locations.

Whilst I do not think that whiskey needs to be aged or expensive to be good, just like wine, there are some very good cheap, young examples, however given my knowledge on the subject I’d perhaps not yet had the understanding to seek these examples out.

Anyway, as I mentioned I was in Japan for a few days and intent on trying some of the local whiskeys. I didn’t have it in mind at the time to buy any bottles but rather wanted to find some little hidden bars where I could sample a variety of what Japan had to offer. To my surprise the bars offered some very good aged local whiskey at a very reasonable price. The rest is slightly blurred… with time obviously.

On my next visit to Japan a few years later, recalling the great experience I had, I decided to buy a couple bottles of whiskey, which from memory were the 21yo Nikka Pure Malt and a 18yo Yamazaki, which I believe cost me around $100 to $150AUD at the time.

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After drinking these in Aus with some friends, also along with some good Scotch, it became apparent how good these Japanese whiskies were. On subsequent trips to Japan I always tired to take some time to explore and find a bar, to try some local whiskey. I also discovered that the owners of these bars, who were typically the same person serving the whiskey, were very interesting characters. It somehow seemed possible to share our passion for whiskey despite the language barrier, perhaps after a few glasses it became easier, or just perhaps the primal incoherence of whiskey addled humans is universal.

More recently, from around 2014 Japan whiskey was very popular globally and unfortunately finding those cheap ages bottle became very hard, and typically very expensive. However for those of us, determined they can still be found in some small bars which still pour great old whisky for a reasonable price.

A recent example of this, is my last couple of trips to Japan were I found these on offer. Which are obviously not local but when Japanese whiskey is not available some old and unique bottles of Scotch can still be found such as these:

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Japan has a warm place in my heart, and not just from the whiskey, but as a place were a little dark bar which only seats about 10 people, can be found situated in the middle of the city, on a crowded streets filled with lights and high rise buildings, and the owner is still pouring whiskey at prices representative of what they were when he bought the bottles many years ago.

Chardy Season

I’ll admit it, I’m a big fan of Chardonnay! I think it is one of the worlds best white wine grapes (I might prefer French/German Riesling?) but perhaps for Australia, the best white wine grape.

However for Australia specifically it has not always been so…

Back in the late 90’s early 2000’s when I was getting into wine a bit more seriously I started drinking chardonnay, as at that time, and I believe is still true now, it is Australia’s most widely planted, consumed and exported white variety. However, it was around this time that a lot of Australian chardonnays were not very good, in fact they were pretty bad.

In the late 80s, and early 90s, demand for chardonnay exceeded supply. Most of the fruit, was grown in warmer climates and became exceedingly oak treated leading to strong, simple and heavy, buttery, or sometimes caramel-like, flavor, which most wine drinkers, including myself, did not like, and thus stopped consuming. This in turn, in the early 2000s sparked off the “unwooded” chardonnay trend, which were notable for their blandness, and to my mind, confirmed that most Australian chardonnays were not very good.

That said, obviously during this time there were still some good, if not great chardonnays being produced, from producers such as Giaconda, Penfolds, Leeuwin Estate, Voyager Estate and others but for the most part these were top end chardonnays, mostly outside of my price range, and not worth the gamble.

However, I remember getting a bottle of 1997 Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay as a gift, which I kept in the cupboard in the center of the house for many years, as I initially was not too interested in wine at this stage. A few years later a friend of mine and I shared a bottle of 2003 Voyager Estate Chardonnay. I was blown away by how good it was, intense melon, nectarine, pineapple, with well integrated quality French oak. I went back and opened that 1997 Voyager Estate Chardonnay and it still showed some primary fruit flavors such as pear, and fig, but also had developed creamy, hazelnut, toffee, (Crème Brulee), secondary flavors. This inspired my love for chardonnay which I still drink a lot of to this day.

Thankfully in the last 15 or so years, chardonnay has become one of Australia’s best grape varietals and my love of this grape has never been stronger.

Thus as the warmer seasons are now upon us, what better excuse (surely no excuses are needed) to drink some of my favorite Australian chardonnay. Thus lets start with the Oakridge Local Vineyard Series Guerin Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 and a Voyager Estate Chardonnay 2006.

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Oakridge make a lot of great Pinot and Chardonnay and are situated in Victoria’s Yarra Valley which is known for producing great examples of both these great varieties. It is one of Australia’s oldest wine regions, dating back to the mid 1800’s.

The Oakridge LVS Guerin Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 is whole bunch pressed, matured on lees and then put into 500 litre French oak puncheons for 11 months. It has a distinctive Oakridge perfume and taste (which is a good thing) with nectarine and pear on the nose which are also reflected on the palette with added citrus and spice and a touch of flint and cashew. It has a slight straw almost with a hint of green colour to it and is still tight  but delivers on flavour and mouth feel, with enough complexity to keep for another 5 years.

In summary a great example of Yarra Valley Chardonnay and with the LVS being Oakridge’s mid range wines a reasonable price. – Score: 96/100.

The Voyager Estate Chardonnay 2006 is one that has been sitting in my cellar for about 8 years and thus obviously has more age to it, but it is singing right now.

It has that Margaret River typical grapefruit and citrus bouquet. The taste also showed grapefruit and citrus with a touch of vanilla, and pear. The texture was light, well balanced and creamy, with well integrated acid and a long and buttery finish with a touch of minerality and honeysuckle. – Score: 96/100.

I drank both these wines over two nights and whilst both wines are great examples of the chardonnay which Australia is now producing I felt the Voyager Estate definitely benefited from a little longer bottle age to allow it to slightly mellow, whilst the Oakridge shone on the second night.

Anyway I am getting thirsty thinking about these two great chardys and am already looking over at my wine fridge to see what will be next.

 

All things French

I am fortunate to have some very generous friends that share a passion for wine, thus every month, or thereabouts, we get together for dinner and wine. This month’s theme, as the title suggests, was French wine, which is obviously a very broad and varied genre, however for this occasion that was specifically the plan.

We started the night with the 2014 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvee Sainte Catherine, Alsace Grand Cru (The Krug owner was 10 mins late and we were thirsty).

I have tried the Weinbach Schlossberg Alsace Grand Cru Riesling before and have always been a big fan of it and the ’14 is an excellent example. It is a very rich, ripe and complex dry Riesling, with a nose of lemon, apple, and peach. Powerful and complex with great texture and a line of vibrant mineral, and good acidity – 96/100.

Next up, as the owner of this bottle had arrived, was the Krug Grande Cuvee. Whilst this is a non vintage, or as Krug calls it a “multi-vintage” it does have a high percentage of aged wine between 1990 and 2007 as the ID code on the label identified.

This particular cuvée is a blend is of 44% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier. The bottles are then aged for at least 6 years in the cellar (the minimum requirement for a non vintage Champagne being 18 months) which gives it great complexity and richness. It is a very iconic Krug style (nothing wrong with that) with aromas of stone fruit, honey and brioche. The palate is full, rich and concentrated flavor of toast, citrus and nutty butter with great acid and a long crisp finish – 96/100.

Next up was the 2014 Vincent Girardin Pouilly-Fuissé Les Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay. This wine is put into French oak casks of 500 liters (10% new) for malolactic fermentation for 14 months, with some barrels then being aged on lees a month before with others in stainless steel tanks, before being blended together and bottled.

Great aromas of pears and apple with a light buttery texture and a palate of passion fruit, citrus and pineapple. The acidity was a little too evident and will perhaps fade with some age – 93/100.

To finish the whites we had the 2014 Domaine Christian Moreau Pere & Fils Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru. This showed great aroma of tropical fruits, citrus and white flowers. The palate was vibrant with tropical fruit, nectarine, and citrus with silky texture and a slight salty minerality on the long finish, a great wine – 95/100. 

The next we tried the two Bordeaux side by side, with the 2005 Chateau Fourcas-Hosten, Listrac-Medoc and the 2009 Chateau Haut-Beausejour, Saint-Estephe with both being decanted, the later for a couple of hours.

The Chateau Fourcas-Hosten was a medium body, with a nose of bright red fruits. On the palate it had some sour cherry, pencil, eucalyptus and a slightly drying tannins.A good wine but nothing particularly interesting – 90/100.

The Chateau Haut-Beausejour, Saint-Estephe was also a medium body, with bright red fruit on the nose which carried through to the palate with blackcurrants and touches of spice and mint, well rounded tannins. Slightly more progressed than I expected even given the couple of hours of decanting and whilst a good wine it had a slightly meaty character which did not appeal to me – 91/100.

The last of red of the night was a 2000 Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape from southern Rhone in Magnum. This was a medium to full body red. The bouquet was a blend of red and black fruits berries. On the palate was strawberry / plums, licorice and spice with a touch of smoky and leather notes. The tannins were well integrated and benefited on tasting from a magnum bottle – 93/100.

The highlight of the night for me was probably the Weinbach Schlossberg Riesling, but with such a good line up of both white and red french wines the whole night was one to remember!

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Digioia-Royer Chambolle-Musigny 2010

Whilst I am but an amateur wine enthusiast, I’m even more naive when it comes to french wine. Thus what follows is perhaps my feeble attempt to classify and characterise this wine based on my limited exposure of french vino.

Name: Digioia-Royer Chambolle-Musigny
Appellation: Burgundy – Chambolle Musigny
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Date Tasted: 05/11/16 – 06/11/16
Tasting Notes: Medium body, dark ruby colour with red cherries on the palette. The tannin and acid are a little prickly and not ideally integrated on first taste but these seem to settle down when tasting again the next day.

This is a young example but I don’t think that age will greatly alter the balance although it should help make it more approachable, not that it is unapproachable now, just a little rough around the edged.

Overall a good wine, but not a great one, and perhaps I was expecting to much as I’ve found most of the Chambolle-Musigny I’ve tried (not many) have tended to be more elegant and silky than this example showed. Obviously typical disclaimers about bottle variation, etc apply although I did not detect any faults.
Score: 90/100.

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Yabby Lake Vineyard Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2014

Whilst I am far from a wine critic or a connoisseur (an expert judge in matters of taste) I do purchase and own, and thus drink my fair share of wine. Thus perhaps more for a record for myself but also just to share my experiences, I’ve decided to attempt to write about the wines that I drink.

Therefore for no other reason than I’ve been meaning to do this for a while and I have a few spare minutes, and a glass of wine in front of me, I thought now would be as good a time as any to begin… so here goes.

Name: Yabby Lake Vineyard Single Vineyard Chardonnay.
Appellation: Mornington Peninsula
Varietal: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2014
Date Tasted: 03/11/16
Tasting Notes: Intense body, grapefruit, peach, tightly wound with a hint of minerality and flint. Great line and length with light well-integrated oak. Fruit needs a little more time to develop.
Score: 94/100

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Wine Maker Comments:

Each parcel of chardonnay was carefully handpicked between 27 February and 5 March, in pristine condition. Every parcel was handled separately in the winery, with minimal intervention. The chardonnay was crushed, pressed and transferred with solids, into tight grain 500L French oak puncheons (20% new) to undergo natural fermentation. It was then left to mature on lees for 11 months, without malolatic fermentation proceeding, until bottling in February 2015.